EARLY ON IN CHIANG MAI –

A few thoughts on the difference in my daily routine (albeit after all of 5 days in). So as a refresher, after significant planning, savings and research, I moved from Laguna Beach to Chiang Mai, Thailand recently. I arrived in Chiang Mai on June 26, 2015 late in the day. I had booked and pre-paid 1 week in a relatively inexpensive, yet highly rated small hotel in an area very close to where I hoped to rent a condo or apartment. The daily hotel rate was about $28 all-in, including unlimited free bottled water (crucial in this climate), free breakfast, unlimited AC of course, great service, friendly people, on and on…

My prior life: aside from the great friends, work compadres and the wonders of living in Laguna Beach and Orange County, my personal routine was mundane, though solely my fault, as others certainly do better at maximizing the SoCal lifestyle than I. But it came down to this – I had a great job – I say that because I would not have traded it for any other as part of this decision. I lived in paradise, literally. I had a relatively affordable rental house with a huge 2nd story deck off my master bedroom sporting a 180 degree Pacific Ocean view, on top of a significant hill, ½ mile from the beach in Laguna. I did try to maximize my time off, but my job was demanding, and there was probably no other way this would all work without a number of personal changes that did not seem to be immediately in the cards. A typical day involved a 1 hour, 10 minute round-trip commute, and 9 hours of focus and deliberation in front of 2 computer monitors, so really, 10-11 hours in a sitting position. Not a complaint, just a fact. Then, as I did thankfully have a rewarding, senior position, there was no time clock. I monitored email and other work input resources basically 24/7. I tried to exercise regularly, and never really gave up. But between stress, diet and exercise, I scored a C- maybe. At age – 59, generally healthy with a few common aging complaints, maintenance-type pills, etc., a significant change seemed in order.

Now fast-forward to today – early in July 2015. I’ve rented a fantastic 1 bedroom condo on the far-west side of Chiang Mai, Thailand. I found it day 1! Actually, the real estate websites in Chiang Mai were easy to navigate, and knowing my desired district, I had narrowed down my selection to a particular condo brand (built by a noted, high-quality developer), and a couple of possible buildings on a certain road. When I emailed upon arrival for a viewing, it was quickly set up and I walked through 2 similar units in the same building and signed a 6 month lease for the 1st one I saw. (I paid a small premium for 6 months vs. a 1 year lease, but what the heck do I know about this real estate market, my unknown neighbors, and other factors that might soon cause me to wish I lived elsewhere.) I was prepared to quickly execute this transaction – I had cash in the form of local currency – I brought USD to exchange at the airport – and was ready to close the deal within a day. It took 3 times the monthly rental to close, a total of $1,200, which is not unlike the USA in deal structure, though not at all comparable in price.

309 of them. Totally worth it though.
Stairs – 309 of them. Totally worth it though.
Bus mates
3 very nice fellow mini-bus passengers. That’s a story I’ll save for another entry.

The unit has a separate bedroom, a kitchenette, mountain view, 2 balconies, 2 air conditioners, common pool and gym, security and many other conveniences.

My most recent typical day:

My day starts at 5:30am. I’m still staying in the hotel since I prepaid for a full week. I’ll use their electricity, AC, breakfast and other conveniences until I check out Friday. So I suited up and walked 10 minutes to the Chiang Mai University rugby fields area where I could commence some exercise I refer to as a blend of jogging, walking and exploring. I actually spent much of the time lost in this massive campus area. Suffice it to say that when I returned at 7:15am, my long sleeved t-shirt was 70% drenched. Mission accomplished. After showering, I went downstairs for several cups of the great Thai coffee served at the hotel. Additionally, after my 5th attempt at trying to figure out what the breakfast offerings wrapped in banana leaves, in fact were, I finally identified my favorite – a wad of sticky rice with a little bag of shredded dried pork. Armed in my room with a bottle of sweet chili sauce I’d bought earlier, my breakfast hunger was quickly satisfied with very little caloric intake. Amazing! I tried to take a nap, but the caffeine was pulsing. I just rested, then at 11am walked to another favorite restaurant with a sidewalk feel such that I could watch the local humanity as they passed by. Garlic sautéed pork over rice with a glass of filtered water – price – $1.50 USD, and it was quite satisfying. Next I walked 5 minutes or less to a “bus” staging area for my venture to Wat Doi Suthep, a mountain-top Buddhist Temple overlooking the entire City of Chiang Mai. I’ve been there 3 or 4 times before, and I’ll go many times in the future. Roundtrip fare – $2.75 for a 1 hour round trip.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wat_Phra_That_Doi_Suthep

Oh and by the way – you’ll climb 309 steps up the ornate stairway approach to the Temple. A thankful cloud cover protected me much of the way, but it’s a hike. After an hour of viewing, touring and photographs, I managed to make by way back to the bus staging area (these “buses” are really long bed compact pickups, with metal roofs and side boards, a step on the bumper, and 2 boards running the length of the bed as seating for 10-12 accommodating souls). I spotted a couple that I recognized from the inbound trip, and we all managed to get the driver to stop for an additional passenger as they were pulling away. (I want to note here that I was exceptionally careful to look both ways for traffic or any other hazards, even though I was hustling to jump on this bus. Thailand is notorious for such accidents as visitors are not as aware as locals of the perils of the ill-defined traffic rules, poor infrastructure, and other stuff that just happens in Thailand.)
I took the moment to inquire of the young couple I had recognized from the earlier bus ride. They were late 20’s I’m guessing. If 30, only barely, and if not, no disrespect intended. They were from NYC and this was their first trip to Thailand. (This is my 19th trip, and I have no return ticket.) I shared a bit about my journey, and asked them about their NYC experience. I welcomed the opportunity to quickly outline my new adventure, and meanwhile got some interesting input and perspective for life in NYC that I’ve never experience, but often imagined.
Now for the fun part of the day. On the presumably routine bus ride down the hill, I casually watch us pass by the staging area for these small buses. Still, I’m very familiar with the area and not concerned. Meanwhile, the NYC couple and I are still conversing actively, as I’m watching us head further and further East towards the ancient city center (founded in 1285 or so). As I see us stopped at a vibrant intersection, I say my quickly say my goodbyes and hop off the bus in the center of the trendy Nimmanhaemin Road (hereafter referred to as the “Nimman”) district. Quite a fun area, though hot, so I explore accordingly. This is maybe my 4th time here, but it’s such a different feeling now because I have no fixed schedule, and no return ticket. Amazing! I stopped accidentally in a place that my ex and I had previously visited. (Meaning I realized it only after walking inside.) I tried to order thoughtfully, and though I had a (rare for Nimman) great 2nd story view of passersby, the salad and fried rice dish I ordered were edible, but barely – a very rare disappointment in this country. Still, and again, overeating is not a problem. As I ventured off, I backtracked and found a street food vendor I’d passed by earlier. They appeared to have a delicious collection of northern Thai sausage, one of my favorites. Still, it’s always a gamble – the sausage factory thing and all. I did find the cart, bought 2 sausages and bought some steamed rice as a side dish closer to home (total cost of this meal – $1.20 USD). The family running the joint seemed typically entertained by my foreign-ness, and were quite friendly and engaging, while at the same time we had very little ability to communicate with words.
I fully expected to find and board another “bus” and pay 70 cents USD to return home. As it turns out, I ended up simply walking the entire 2-3 miles or so to my hotel. I took the opportunity to view the store fronts along the way. It’s different now. I’m not just looking out the window at a flash of store fronts as in previous trips – I’m now looking for specific goods and services in my hometown!

Before I left the USA, I sold my house, car and donated most other belongings including my bike and golf clubs. So I have some things to replace (namely, my bicycle and golf clubs). I literally arrived with 3 suitcases, and I’ve decided that’s still too much stuff. I have absolutely no other earthly possessions, storage units, etc., other than the few heirlooms I’ve left with family members stateside.
On the walk back, I discovered and stopped into a bike shop. (I’d been Googling Chiang Mai bike shops and had never run across this one.) I described my previous bike – and albeit with a language barrier, the guy seemed confounded at my description of my Trek Verve 4 (a very nice “hybrid” bike I’d outfitted with fenders, saddle bags, etc). As I continued to attempt to describe it with its smallish but not as narrow as road bike tires, I saw several straight handle bar models (like the Verve), yet with mountain bike width tires. Then I realized we’re not in Orange County any more. Those wide tires are absolutely necessary for Chiang Mai roads, with all the gaps, holes, cracks and countless other imperfections I’ll be sure to encounter. The brand was “Massa”. I’m not familiar with that brand, and could not find a company website. But after a further web search, it appears to be an Alibaba-based brand, with carbon bikes as cheap as $1,200. This was an aluminum frame bike for $630. I’ll need to check out the component quality, but in an imperfect Asia, this may be an appropriate imperfect bike for the task at hand.
So let’s review the day at this point. Beginning at 6am, I commenced (not entirely on purpose) a full hour of walking and jogging, getting lost for a time on the massive Chiang Mai University campus. After a few hours of rest, I walked 10 minutes to my favorite lunchtime café for my $1.50 lunch, followed by another 10 minutes’ walk to the bus staging area. Next stop, Wat Doi Suthep and its 309 steps to the top of the mountain – and back. Then chasing the return bus, voluntarily overshooting my stop in favor of a stop and walkabout in the Nimman Road district. Not intentional, but on my return, a good strong walk in 85 F heat with at least a 70% humidity – 2 to 3 miles additional. So whatever that is, it’s a lot of burned calories, with limited but satisfying calorie intake throughout the day. With a choice, I’d have taken another 3 showers during the day in addition to the 2 showers I did experience. In SE Asia, you learn to get drenched, cool off, and forget. At the end of each day, there are no delicate flowers remaining! So I just go with it and do my best to enjoy each moment of each day.
Contrast that experience (presumably not an unusual one), with my SoCal lifestyle, albeit then with a significant income, which income for reasons only attributable to my actions, has since ceased. I own no car, so it’s now impossible now for me to commute for 6 hours per week in a sitting position. Further, I quit my job, so I no longer sit in my office for 45-50 hours per week. Stress-wise, I’ll let you fill in those presumed details, but suffice it to say, it’s different in a good way.

This is a very popular mountain-top Buddhist Temple outside Chiang Mai
This is a very popular mountain-top Buddhist Temple outside Chiang Mai
View of Chiang Mai from Wat Doi Suthep
Baht Bus - My Primary Mode of Transportation
Red mini-bus – my primary mode of transportation in Thailand
There is a smile in there - but it is hot
There is a big smile in there somewhere – but it is very hot!

I’ve just begun this new portion of my life’s journey. (I want to make it clear that I don’t view this as a new journey, only a new chapter in my continuous life journey.) Still, I must believe that if I can avoid certain foreign-based perils like traffic mishaps, like looking the wrong way before stepping into oncoming traffic (which I’ve done by the way – they drive on the left side), then this new life equation, including increased physical activity, decreased calorie intake, better food, less stress, less sitting, less familiar intellectual challenges, and other details it’s way too early to identify, will result in a positive overall change in my life. (At least for now. I’ll not be so presumptive that I’ve figured out life for all time, or for the next 3 months even.) But this looks promising, and at some great financial and personal risk, I’ve taken these steps in my life.
Tomorrow will be the first night in my new apartment. Another chapter ensues, and I’ll welcome and the unknown challenges of that new day.

Note to self – drink more water!

© Jeff Rogers

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